Water-binders

Urea

INCI: UREA · also Carbamide

Part of the skin’s own moisturising factor.

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CH4N2O60.06 g/mol
oxygennitrogencarbonhydrogen
3D shape from PubChem 1176

How common

All products1.7%
In body lotions7%
In face moisturisers2.9%
In toothpastes2.8%

250 of 14,784 products with a full ingredient list in Open Beauty Facts; No. 166 of all the names found on their labels.

What it is

  • A small molecule the body makes when it breaks down protein. In skin it is part of the natural moisturising factor, and it absorbs water.

    2 sourcesHide
    A compound formed in the liver from ammonia produced by the deamination of amino acids.[1] PubChem (US National Library of Medicine) · open source
    Urea is a hygroscopic molecule (capable of absorbing water) present in the epidermis as a component of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF)[2] Review · 2021 · open source

Why it is in products

  • To moisturise, and to soften and loosen thick, scaly skin (a keratolytic).

    SourceHide
    urea is widely used in dermatology to improve skin barrier function and as one of the most common moisturizers and keratolytic agents[2] Review · 2021 · open source

What it does

  • Trials show clear improvement in many dry, scaly skin conditions, such as eczema, ichthyosis and psoriasis.

    Good evidenceskinSourceHide
    Multiple clinical trials on the use of urea-containing formulations have shown significant clinical improvement in many of the dermatosis presenting with scaly and dry skin such as atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis, xerosis, seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis[2] Review · 2021 · open source
  • In eczema, a urea cream improved dryness more often than a plain cream, with fewer flares, in single trials.

    Some evidenceskinSourceHide
    Urea-containing cream improved dryness (investigator-assessed) more frequently (one study, 128 participants, RR 1.40, 95% CI 1.14 to 1.71; moderate-quality evidence) with fewer flares[3] Review · 2017 · open source

Downsides and safety

  • Side effects are mild, and more common at high strengths; in one eczema trial, more people reported side effects with the urea cream than with the plain one.

    Some evidence2 sourcesHide
    Urea-based products are well tolerated; their side effects are mild and are more frequent at high concentration.[2] Review · 2021 · open source
    but more participants in this group reported adverse events (one study, 129 participants, RR 1.65, 95% CI 1.16 to 2.34; moderate-quality evidence)[3] Review · 2017 · open source

Where it works

SurfaceOuter layer(stratum corneum)Living layer(epidermis)Dermis

In the skin’s outer layer, which it needs to stay hydrated and intact.

Good evidenceSourceHide
essential for the adequate hydration and integrity of the stratum corneum[2] Review · 2021 · open source

Rules

European Union

  • No EU limit: it is not on the regulation’s lists of banned or restricted substances, preservatives or UV filters.

    How we checkedHide
    We searched Annexes II to VI of the EU regulation (consolidated text of 18 May 2026): no entry.open the list

United States

  • Not on the FDA’s list of prohibited or restricted cosmetic ingredients. In the US, cosmetics and their ingredients (other than colour additives) don’t need FDA approval before sale.

    SourceHide
    Under U.S. law, cosmetic products and ingredients, other than color additives, do not need FDA approval before they go on the market[4] US Food and Drug Administration · open source
    We searched the FDA’s list of prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients: no entry.open the list

Sources

  1. PubChem: Urea (CID 1176), record description PubChem (US National Library of Medicine)PubChem (US National Library of Medicine)
  2. Urea in Dermatology: A Review of its Emollient, Moisturizing, Keratolytic, Skin Barrier Enhancing and Antimicrobial Properties Piquero-Casals J et al., Dermatology and therapy, 2021ReviewAuthors include staff of ISDIN
  3. Emollients and moisturisers for eczema van Zuuren EJ et al., The Cochrane database of systematic reviews, 2017Review
  4. Prohibited & Restricted Ingredients in Cosmetics | FDA US Food and Drug Administration

Checked against these sources on 4 November 2026. Spot a mistake? Tell us.