CosmeticBet
Water-binders

Sodium hyaluronate

INCI: SODIUM HYALURONATE · also Hyaluronic acid (its salt)

Hyaluronic acid: size decides how far it goes.

How common

All products4%
In face moisturisers29%
In make-up products8.8%
In sunscreens4.6%

588 of 14,784 products with a full ingredient list in Open Beauty Facts; No. 71 of all the names found on their labels.

What it is

  • A salt of hyaluronic acid, the key molecule for moisture in skin, with a unique capacity to hold water. For cosmetics it comes mainly from bacterial fermentation or from rooster combs.

    3 sourcesHide
    Hyaluronic acid and its sodium and potassium salts are considered safe for use in cosmetics as described in the safety assessment.[1] US Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel · 2009 · open source
    The key molecule involved in skin moisture is hyaluronic acid (HA) that has unique capacity in retaining water.[2] Study · 2012 · open source
    primarily obtained from bacterial fermentation and rooster combs[1] US Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel · 2009 · open source

Why it is in products

  • To bind water and condition the skin, at up to 2%.

    2 sourcesHide
    function in cosmetics as skin conditioning agents at concentrations up to 2%[1] US Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel · 2009 · open source
    Due to its strong water-binding potential, hyaluronic acid (HA) is a well-known active ingredient for cosmetic applications.[3] Study · 2011 · open source

What it does

  • In a 60-day controlled study of 76 women, creams with 0.1% hyaluronic acid improved skin hydration and elasticity against a plain cream; only the smaller molecules (50 and 130 kDa) also reduced wrinkle depth.

    Good evidenceskin3 sourcesHide
    Seventy-six female subjects between 30 and 60 years of age[3] Study · 2011 · open source
    All HA-based creams utilized in this study demonstrated a significant improvement in skin hydration and overall elasticity values (R2) when compared to placebo.[3] Study · 2011 · open source
    revealed significant improvement in the 130 and the 50 kDa HA group after 60 days of treatment compared to placebo-treated area[3] Study · 2011 · open source

Downsides and safety

  • The US expert panel concluded it is safe in cosmetics; it was not a sensitiser in animal studies.

    Well established2 sourcesHide
    Hyaluronic acid and its sodium and potassium salts are considered safe for use in cosmetics as described in the safety assessment.[1] US Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel · 2009 · open source
    Hyaluronic acid was not immunogenic, nor was it a sensitizer in animal studies.[1] US Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel · 2009 · open source

Where it works

SurfaceOuter layer(stratum corneum)Living layer(epidermis)Dermis

Size decides: in a lab study, small hyaluronic acid (20 to 300 kDa) passed through the skin’s outer layer, while large (1,000 to 1,400 kDa) did not.

Some evidenceSourceHide
HA with low molecular weight (20-300 kDa) passes through the stratum corneum in contrast of the impermeability of high molecular weight HA (1000-1400 kDa)[4] Study · 2016 · open source

Rules

European Union

  • No EU limit: it is not on the regulation’s lists of banned or restricted substances, preservatives or UV filters.

    How we checkedHide
    We searched Annexes II to VI of the EU regulation (consolidated text of 18 May 2026): named only inside a banned nano-gold compound (Annex II), not as hyaluronic acid itself.open the list

United States

  • Not on the FDA’s list of prohibited or restricted cosmetic ingredients. In the US, cosmetics and their ingredients (other than colour additives) don’t need FDA approval before sale.

    SourceHide
    Under U.S. law, cosmetic products and ingredients, other than color additives, do not need FDA approval before they go on the market[5] US Food and Drug Administration · open source
    We searched the FDA’s list of prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients: no entry.open the list

How much is used

  • Up to 2% in cosmetics.

    SourceHide
    function in cosmetics as skin conditioning agents at concentrations up to 2%[1] US Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel · 2009 · open source

Sources

  1. Final report of the safety assessment of hyaluronic acid, potassium hyaluronate, and sodium hyaluronate International journal of toxicology, 2009US Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel
  2. Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging Papakonstantinou E et al., Dermato-endocrinology, 2012Study
  3. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment Pavicic T et al., Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD, 2011Study
  4. Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy Essendoubi M et al., Skin research and technology : official journal of International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin (ISBS) [and] International Society for Digital Imaging of Skin (ISDIS) [and] International Society for Skin Imaging (ISSI), 2016StudyAuthors include staff of Soliance
  5. Prohibited & Restricted Ingredients in Cosmetics | FDA US Food and Drug Administration

Checked against these sources on 4 November 2026. Spot a mistake? Tell us.