Conditioners

Behentrimonium chloride

INCI: BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE · also BTAC, BTMC

A positively charged conditioning agent.

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C25H54ClN404.20 g/mol
chlorinenitrogencarbon
2D drawing from PubChem 3014969 (hydrogens hidden)

How common

All products2.3%
In conditioners37%
In hair colours22%
In body lotions0.60%

345 of 14,784 products with a full ingredient list in Open Beauty Facts; No. 123 of all the names found on their labels.

What it is

  • A “quat” (quaternary ammonium salt): a positively charged head on a 22-carbon tail.

    3 sourcesHide
    Quaternary ammonium salts, including alkyl chain, alkanol, and polymer derivatives (trimoniums)[1] US Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel · 2012 · open source
    C 22 -alkyltrimethylammonium chloride Behentrimonium chloride[2] EU law · 2026 · open source
    Conditioner molecules contain cationic surfactant which gives a positive electric charge to the conditioner.[3] Study · 2015 · open source

Why it is in products

  • To condition hair and stop static; it also helps mix oil and water. Agents like it are the backbone of a conditioner.

    2 sourcesHide
    commonly used as an antistatic, hair conditioning, emulsifier, or preservative agent in personal care products[4] Study · 2013 · open source
    They are considered the backbone of a conditioner[3] Study · 2015 · open source

What it does

  • Its positive charge draws it to hair, which is negatively charged, and most to weathered or damaged areas.

    Well establishedhair2 sourcesHide
    The negative charge of the hair is attracted to the positively charged conditioner molecules, which results in conditioner getting deposited on the hair, especially on areas where there is degree of weathering.[3] Study · 2015 · open source
    electrostatic interaction is the most important one for bleached hair[5] Study · 2023 · open source
  • Makes wet hair much easier to comb. In a 2026 lab comparison, its long tail helped it stick and condition better than three other common agents; another lab study measured combing force falling by up to 95% with conditioner gels made from it.

    Good evidencehair3 sourcesHide
    Longer-chain surfactants like BTMC showed superior deposition and conditioning due to stronger van der Waals interactions[6] Study · 2026 · open source
    Wet combing analyses revealed that BTMC significantly reduced combing forces, improving manageability[6] Study · 2026 · open source
    there is an 89% reduction in combing force and a 95% reduction in combing force in the BTAC/CA system of ratio 6:10[7] Study · 2020 · open source
  • It does not repair damage. The same study found no reversal of chemical damage: hair is easier to handle, not mended.

    Some evidencehairSourceHide
    ATR-FTIR analysis indicated no reversal of oxidative damage, suggesting conditioners improve manageability without repairing structural damage.[6] Study · 2026 · open source

Downsides and safety

  • It can irritate when a product is badly formulated: the US panel’s verdict is safe when formulated not to irritate. A maker’s tests of body lotions with 1 to 5% found no irritation.

    Good evidence2 sourcesHide
    These ingredients were determined to be safe in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be nonirritating.[1] US Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel · 2012 · open source
    if formulated in appropriate conditions at 1-5%, BTC will not cause dermal irritation or delayed contact sensitization when used in a whole-body, leave-on product[4] Study · 2013 · open source

Where it works

Surface (cuticle)Inside (cortex)Core (medulla)

On the hair’s surface, most where the cuticle is weathered.

Well establishedSourceHide
especially on areas where there is degree of weathering[3] Study · 2015 · open source

Rules

European Union

  • Limited by EU law (Annex III, entry 287): at most 5.0% in rinse-off hair products, 3.0% in leave-on hair products and 3.0% in leave-on face products.

    3 sourcesHide
    (a) Rinse-off hair products (a) 5,0 % for the individual concentration of behentrimonium chloride[2] EU law · 2026 · open source
    (b) Leave-on hair products (b) 3,0 % for the individual concentration of behentrimonium chloride[2] EU law · 2026 · open source
    (c) Leave-on face products (c) 3,0 % for the individual concentration of behentrimonium chloride[2] EU law · 2026 · open source
  • Used as a preservative, it is allowed only up to 0.1% (Annex V, entry 44).

    SourceHide
    Alkyl (C 12-22 ) trimethyl ammonium bromide and chloride Behentrimonium chloride ( 15 ) , 17301-53-0, 241-327-0, 0,1 %[2] EU law · 2026 · open source

United States

  • Not on the FDA’s list of prohibited or restricted cosmetic ingredients. In the US, cosmetics and their ingredients (other than colour additives) don’t need FDA approval before sale.

    SourceHide
    Under U.S. law, cosmetic products and ingredients, other than color additives, do not need FDA approval before they go on the market[8] US Food and Drug Administration · open source
    We searched the FDA’s list of prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients: no entry.open the list

How much is used

  • At most 5% (rinse-off hair) or 3% (leave-on) in the EU.

    SourceHide
    (a) Rinse-off hair products (a) 5,0 % for the individual concentration of behentrimonium chloride[2] EU law · 2026 · open source

Sources

  1. Safety assessment of trimoniums as used in cosmetics International journal of toxicology, 2012US Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel
  2. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, consolidated text of 18 May 2026 Publications Office of the European Union (EUR-Lex/Cellar), 2026EU law
  3. Shampoo and Conditioners: What a Dermatologist Should Know? Indian Journal of Dermatology, 2015Study
  4. Confirmation of in vitro and clinical safety assessment of behentrimonium chloride-containing leave-on body lotions using post-marketing adverse event data Cameron DM et al., Toxicology in vitro : an international journal published in association with BIBRA, 2013StudyAuthors include staff of Kao USA
  5. Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition Labarre L et al., International journal of cosmetic science, 2023StudyAuthors include staff of Procter & Gamble
  6. Electrokinetic analysis reveals common conditioner ingredient interactions with human hair Tham HP et al., International journal of cosmetic science, 2026StudyAuthors include staff of Ashland and Anton Paar (with A*STAR)
  7. Microstructure design of CTAC:FA and BTAC:FA lamellar gels for optimized rheological performance utilizing automated formulation platform Davies AR et al., International journal of cosmetic science, 2020Study
  8. Prohibited & Restricted Ingredients in Cosmetics | FDA US Food and Drug Administration

Checked against these sources on 4 November 2026. Spot a mistake? Tell us.