Softeners and thickeners

Shea butter

INCI: BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER · also Shea butter

A plant butter rich in oleic and stearic acids.

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C18H34O2282.50 g/mol
Oleic acid, the main fatty acid of shea butter; in the butter it is bound in fats (triglycerides)
oxygencarbonhydrogen
3D shape from PubChem 445639

How common

All products7.6%
In lip products42%
In face moisturisers37%
In body lotions26%

1,128 of 14,784 products with a full ingredient list in Open Beauty Facts; No. 34 of all the names found on their labels.

What it is

  • A vegetable butter from the shea tree (Butyrospermum parkii). Its fatty acids are mostly oleic (40 to 60%) and stearic (30 to 45%), and 3 to 10% of it is unsaponifiable matter.

    3 sourcesHide
    Lauric acid (%) Myristic acid (%) Palmitic acid (%) Stearic acid (%) Palmitoleic acid (%) Oleic acid (%) Erucic acid (%) Linoleic acid (%)[1] Study · 2022 · open source
    Unsaponifiable matter (%)[1] Study · 2022 · open source
    Shea (Butyrospermum pparkii) butter (Akihisa et al., 2010; Fontanel, 2013; Janeš and Kočevar Glavač, 2018) — — 3–5 30–45 — 40–60 — 4–16 <0.2 42 49 5 3–10[1] Study · 2022 · open source

Why it is in products

  • Plant oils and butters like it condition, soften and moisturise the skin, partly by forming a layer that keeps water in (occlusive).

    SourceHide
    Oils are used in a wide variety of cosmetic products for their skin conditioning, occlusive, emollient, and moisturizing properties.[2] US Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel · 2017 · open source

What it does

  • For eczema the evidence is thin: in one small study of 34 children, a cream with shea butter extract did no better or worse than a ceramide cream tested earlier.

    Some evidenceskin2 sourcesHide
    A total of 34 patients with atopic dermatitis were recruited[3] Review · 2015 · open source
    The cream containing shea butter extract did not differ in acceptability or efficacy from a ceramide-precursor product.[3] Review · 2015 · open source

Downsides and safety

  • A lab study found no soluble proteins in shea butter that bind IgE, the antibodies behind allergic reactions.

    Some evidenceSourceHide
    Shea butter contains no IgE-binding soluble proteins.[4] Study · 2011 · open source

Where it works

SurfaceOuter layer(stratum corneum)Living layer(epidermis)Dermis

On the skin’s surface, where it softens and keeps water in.

SourceHide
Oils are used in a wide variety of cosmetic products for their skin conditioning, occlusive, emollient, and moisturizing properties.[2] US Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel · 2017 · open source

Rules

European Union

  • No EU limit: it is not on the regulation’s lists of banned or restricted substances, preservatives or UV filters.

    How we checkedHide
    We searched Annexes II to VI of the EU regulation (consolidated text of 18 May 2026): no entry.open the list

United States

  • Not on the FDA’s list of prohibited or restricted cosmetic ingredients. In the US, cosmetics and their ingredients (other than colour additives) don’t need FDA approval before sale.

    SourceHide
    Under U.S. law, cosmetic products and ingredients, other than color additives, do not need FDA approval before they go on the market[5] US Food and Drug Administration · open source
    We searched the FDA’s list of prohibited and restricted cosmetic ingredients: no entry.open the list

Sources

  1. Vegetable Butters and Oils as Therapeutically and Cosmetically Active Ingredients for Dermal Use: A Review of Clinical Studies Frontiers in Pharmacology, 2022Study
  2. Safety Assessment of Plant-Derived Fatty Acid Oils International journal of toxicology, 2017US Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel
  3. Patient acceptability, efficacy, and skin biophysiology of a cream and cleanser containing lipid complex with shea butter extract versus a ceramide product for eczema Hon KL et al., Hong Kong medical journal = Xianggang yi xue za zhi, 2015Review
  4. Shea butter contains no IgE-binding soluble proteins Chawla KK et al., The Journal of allergy and clinical immunology, 2011Study
  5. Prohibited & Restricted Ingredients in Cosmetics | FDA US Food and Drug Administration

Checked against these sources on 4 November 2026. Spot a mistake? Tell us.